Looking for a specific guide, area or problem?
Map Zoom Scroll
Castle Rock

Castle Rock

Castle rock is the unappreciated step-brother of the City of Rocks. Just to the North, what it lacks in sheer rock quantity, it makes up for in quality, at least as far as the bouldering goes. But, do keep in mind, 99% of the rock is complete choss. The boulders are basically blockier versions of the Buttermilks, a lot of that crumblier granite that does clean up but just takes a while. ACCESS IS DELICATE right now. Check with the park service to see what the current state is. I know quite a bit of the North section is off limits for now.

Rock Type: Granite

Grade Spectrum

  • V0
  • V1
  • V2
  • V3
  • V4
  • V5
  • V6
  • V7
  • V8
  • V9
  • V10
  • V11
  • V12
  • V13
  • V14
  • V15
  • V16
  • V17


Best Days

More >>
<< Less


More >>
<< Less

(Possibly) Related Videos from

Set as Cover Photo
Tagged Users
Tagged Guides, Areas and Problems
Submitted By:
Users Tagged
Tag Users
Tag User
Tagged Guides, Areas and Problems

Tag Guides, Problems and Areas:
Tag Guide, Problem or Area

Delete Media

More >>
<< Less


From the South, take I-84 to the second Snowville exit, Exit 5. Turn left at the end of the exit ramp and follow this road until you see signs for City of Rocks. Follow a bunch of dirt roads for about an hour until you see a left turn for the City. (If you get lost on the dirt roads don't worry, they all eventually either lead to a creepy rancher's house or a roundabout way to Almo). Don't take the left, but drive through Almo until you see signs for Castle Rock State Park. Take that left and don't forget to stop and pay the $5 entrance fee.


I only have a Salt Laker's perspective. The Idahoan's have their own, but I think it came a bit later than ours. An original crew from SLC including Dave Gurman, Shawna Jacoby, Ben Ditto, Justin Wood, Eric Williams, Jared Roth, Rob Guinn, Cerri Francis, Elizabeth Hardwick and Luke Cudney (I know I'm forgetting someone) began to develop the bouldering once Castle Rock State Park opened to climbers. At the time I think we were all looking for something new. Not just new bouldering, but a new perspective. Castle Rock gave us that. The problems are tall; you're often soloing more than really bouldering. Most of us had been climbing for over ten years and had the head for it. We relished it. We were also sick of the climbing establishment. The numbers, the spray, all the bullshit that was secondary to the actual climbing. This manifested itself into a lot of climbing with absolutely no thought to taxonomy. Nothing was named, nothing was graded, we were just climbing. This didn't last too long. Well, the lack of grades did. I'm taking a giant step in grading a lot of these problems, and honestly I feel like I'm loosing a bit of my soul while I do it. But, we did eventually start naming things once we realized describing the random arete 'with that funky pinch' wasn't really working. And to be honest, not letting Rob Guinn name anything was like taking candy from a baby; it was just wrong. So, fast-forward through a season or two and word eventually started to get out, especially about the War Path Cave. Once Litz did that thing, everyone was flocking to Castle. But, it seems strange to me that they all just go to the cave and then up to the DMT (Green) wall when there's plenty other amazing boulders around. I dunno, maybe they're just a little too tall. I know the history goes back even further with the Verm and the legendary Zschiesche, but that is beyond my time.

Camping / Accomodations

This guide has no camping or accomodations listed yet. Login to add some.


This guide has no information about access. Login to add some.

Download PDF of Castle Rock

This download only has guide information. If you wish to download the topos and problems for this guide, then please visit the respective areas.

Download PDF
Please wait, creating pdf...


^ Adjust the map position

If necessary, reposition the map so that the area representing the guide is centered in the map above.


Rock Type



Camping / Accomodations


Rating System: