Castle rock is the unappreciated step-brother of the City of Rocks. Just to the North, what it lacks in sheer rock quantity, it makes up for in quality, at least as far as the bouldering goes. But, do keep in mind, 99% of the rock is complete choss. The boulders are basically blockier versions of the Buttermilks, a lot of that crumblier granite that does clean up but just takes a while. ACCESS IS DELICATE right now. Check with the park service to see what the current state is. I know quite a bit of the North section is off limits for now.
From the South, take I-84 to the second Snowville exit, Exit 5. Turn left at the end of the exit ramp and follow this road until you see signs for City of Rocks. Follow a bunch of dirt roads for about an hour until you see a left turn for the City. (If you get lost on the dirt roads don't worry, they all eventually either lead to a creepy rancher's house or a roundabout way to Almo). Don't take the left, but drive through Almo until you see signs for Castle Rock State Park. Take that left and don't forget to stop and pay the $5 entrance fee.
I only have a Salt Laker's perspective. The Idahoan's have their own, but I think it came a bit later than ours. An original crew from SLC including Dave Gurman, Shawna Jacoby, Ben Ditto, Justin Wood, Eric Williams, Jared Roth, Rob Guinn, Cerri Francis, Elizabeth Hardwick and Luke Cudney (I know I'm forgetting someone) began to develop the bouldering once Castle Rock State Park opened to climbers. At the time I think we were all looking for something new. Not just new bouldering, but a new perspective. Castle Rock gave us that. The problems are tall; you're often soloing more than really bouldering. Most of us had been climbing for over ten years and had the head for it. We relished it. We were also sick of the climbing establishment. The numbers, the spray, all the bullshit that was secondary to the actual climbing. This manifested itself into a lot of climbing with absolutely no thought to taxonomy. Nothing was named, nothing was graded, we were just climbing. This didn't last too long. Well, the lack of grades did. I'm taking a giant step in grading a lot of these problems, and honestly I feel like I'm loosing a bit of my soul while I do it. But, we did eventually start naming things once we realized describing the random arete 'with that funky pinch' wasn't really working. And to be honest, not letting Rob Guinn name anything was like taking candy from a baby; it was just wrong. So, fast-forward through a season or two and word eventually started to get out, especially about the War Path Cave. Once Litz did that thing, everyone was flocking to Castle. But, it seems strange to me that they all just go to the cave and then up to the DMT (Green) wall when there's plenty other amazing boulders around. I dunno, maybe they're just a little too tall. I know the history goes back even further with the Verm and the legendary Zschiesche, but that is beyond my time.
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