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Corona del Mar

Corona del Mar aka The Beach aka Pirate's Cove Beach sandstone is a truly unique kind of rock that has to be experienced to understand. The closest rock type would probably be limestone. Corona del Mar routes vary between jug hauls, dicey face problems, and massively over-hanging roof problems. Opinions vary on the beach, and everything you've heard (good or bad) is probably true, but keep in mind that since the conditions are intensely climate dependent, someone who goes on the "wrong" day will probably not have a good time. Ocean moisture and humidity will make the chalk caked holds slimy to the touch, and on the steeper stuff, mostly unclimbable. However, when conditions are right the climbing is superb. You will definitely want to bring a brush and a scrap of carpet (or something to wipe your feet on) since the sand here gets everywhere. Crash pads are nice to have, but the sand landings are pretty soft so if you leave it at home its not a huge loss. Mainly pads just keep you from rolling around in the wet sand on sit starts. Highlights include: Iron Man v3 Diamond Man v4 Paper Boy v6 Italian Falls v3

Rock Type: Sandstone


Grade Spectrum

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  • V17


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Directions

Located in Newport Beach, California. Take the PCH to Marguerite (signal 1/4 mile south of McArthur Blvd) and make a turn west (toward the coast). Go 2 blocks to Ocean, turn right (north). Park in the parking area (fee; down hill to left (west)), or on Ocean Blvd. just a bit further north. Where Ocean makes a sharp right, you will see a small grassy "park" on the blufftop. Hike down steps her to the "cove" below.

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